Before the procedure, the question that matters: is your machine set up for it? Switching from steel to rubber isn't always just swapping the track. On some undercarriages the drive sprockets and rollers also change, because the pitch and profile are different.
Ask your dealer before you buy the tracks, not after. It's the most expensive mistake people make on this job: two brand-new tracks sitting in a warehouse that don't fit.
When it makes sense
- the work has shifted from jobsite to landscaping, urban environments, or maintenance;
- you're running on finished surfaces — yards, paver driveways, floors — and steel marks them;
- you're working near homes and noise has become an issue;
- the operator is putting in long hours and the vibration from steel tracks is taking a toll.
When it doesn't make sense: if most of the work stays on rubble, gravel, or rock, rubber wears out fast and you end up paying twice.
What to check first
The drive sprockets and rollers. If they're worn, fitting new tracks onto a worn undercarriage means destroying them quickly: a worn profile doesn't mesh properly and chews through the new track. If the undercarriage is at the end of its life, replace everything together or don't replace anything at all.
The exact size, which is three numbers, not one: width, pitch, number of links. You'll find them on the track itself or in the machine's documentation. Don't go by eye and don't go by model name: the same model can have different undercarriages.
The condition of the tensioners, which is the part almost nobody checks. If the tensioner can't hold pressure, the new track will come off just like the old one did, and it'll look like the track's fault.
The job, in brief — and why I wouldn't do it alone
The sequence is always the same: release tension from the tensioner, pull off the old track, inspect and clean the undercarriage, feed the new track over the sprocket and rollers, re-tension it, and check the sag.
That sounds straightforward. In practice, there are two points where people actually get hurt:
Releasing the tension. The tensioner is under pressure. If you open it the wrong way, grease and the piston come out with force. Follow the manufacturer's procedure, use the right equipment, and stay out of the line of fire.
Lifting the machine. The machine needs to be supported on stable stands, not on a floor jack or a pallet. A tracked machine balanced on one side shifts more easily than it looks.
If you don't have the right equipment and workspace, this is a job for a shop or your dealer. It's not the part where you cut corners.
After installation
- Re-check tension after the first few hours of work: a new track settles and loosens.
- Run the first few passes unloaded, without any cargo, watching that it tracks properly through turns.
- Avoid counter-rotations in place during the first few hours: it's the maneuver that puts the most stress on the track.
- Write down the date and the machine's hours. In two years you'll want to know how long they lasted.
In summary
Switching from steel to rubber is a decision about where you work, not about preference. Before you buy, confirm that the undercarriage is compatible and get the three size numbers; check the drive sprockets, rollers, and tensioners, because a worn undercarriage will destroy new tracks; and the two dangerous steps — releasing tension and lifting the machine — do them with the right equipment or have someone who has it do them for you.
